At the top of a climb, climbers have many ice screw options. Some climbers leave screws remaining, while others take them down. Years of controversy have surrounded leaving screws behind. Some climbers think it’s wasteful to leave screws behind, while others don’t carry one on every ascent.
Leaving ice screws at the top of a climb is advantageous:
- It saves weight and space.
- It prevents bag punctures and tears.
- It contains missing or damaged screws.
- It keeps the climbing area clean and safe.
Carrying ice screws to the bottom of a climb can be cumbersome and time-consuming. It also increases the risk of losing or damaging screws. That’s why many climbers leave screws at the top of advancements instead.
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How to Choose the Right Ice Screws for Your Climb
Using the wrong screws can be harmful when climbing. Choose the right screw for the ice. Consider the screw’s weight and the hole’s size and shape. Using the wrong screws might cause mishaps, so choose wisely.
Tubular, self-tapping, and anchor ice screws are common. Tubular screws are commonly used in soft ice. Self-tapping screws are better for harder ice than tubular screws. Anchor screws are the strongest and ideal for a hard frost.
When choosing an ice screw, consider the type of ice you’ll be climbing. If it’s soft, use a tubular screw. If it’s hard, use a self-tapping screw. And if you’re unsure, ask a professional for help.
The size of the hole is essential, too. A small hole will require a smaller screw. A large hole will need a larger screw. The shape of the hole matters, too. A round hole needs a different screw than an angular one.
What to Do if You Forget to Pack Your Ice Screws
It is essential to have a backup plan in case you forget something important, like your ice screws. That way, you can stay safe while climbing and avoid taking risks to get down the mountain.
If you forget your ice screws, the first thing you should do is assess the situation. If you are on a mountain and there is no way to get down without ice screws, you will need to find another way down. This may mean rappelling or finding another route that does not require ice screws.
If you forget your ice screws at the bottom of the climb, head back to the car. If you’re already up the mountain, carefully descend without ice screws. Before landing, make a plan and make sure it’s safe.
If you’re missing ice screws, improvise. Try a nut or cam instead. Designed to grab ice, ice screws are the most excellent climbing anchor. Other anchors can also work.
Try fitting a screw in the hole. Depending on the hole size and screw type, this may be tough. If you have a wrong-sized screw, try hammering it in or using a different tool. This should be a last resort and only be done if safe.
How to Bail Out From a Climb Using an Ice Screw
Before understanding how to bail with an ice screw, it’s necessary to know why. Abandoning a climb can be perilous. Knowing how to get out safely can mean life or death if it’s your only option.
Place one in an ice patch to bail out using an ice screw. The other screw must be secure. After installing both screws, clip a carabiner to the first one. After attaching the rope to the first screw, make a loop. After creating the circle, put your weight on the string and unclip the first screw. Repeat till you land.
Bailing out from a climb using an ice screw is not something that should be taken lightly. However, if you find yourself in a situation where bailing out is your only option, knowing how to do so safely can be the difference between life and death.
To bail with an ice screw, you must first place one of the screws in an ice patch. The other screw should be placed in a solid spot. Once both screws are in place, you need to use a carabiner to clip into the first screw.
After clipping into the first screw, you must create a loop with the rope. Once the loop is created, you can put your weight on the string and unclip it from the first screw. Repeat this process until you reach the ground.
Tips for Climbing in Cold Weather
Dress appropriately for climbing in chilly weather. This involves removing layers as you warm up—also, Gloves and boots warm hands and feet. Carry additional insulation, food, water, and a first-aid kit.
Dress in layers
Wearing layers is vital when climbing in cold weather. You want to be able to take off layers as you warm up and put them back on if you start to cool down. It’s essential to have various layers, including a base layer, an insulation layer, and a waterproof outer layer.
Keep your hands and feet warm.
Your hands and feet are susceptible to frostbite, so keeping them warm is essential. Wear gloves and boots that are well-insulated. If you feel your hands or feet getting cold, stop and put on more layers.
Carry a backpack with extra supplies
When climbing in cold weather, carrying a backpack with extra supplies is always a good idea. Insulation, food, drink, and a first-aid pack is included. If you get lost or injured, these items can help you stay safe until help arrives.
How to Dress for Success When Climbing on the Ice
Ice climbing is a gratifying challenge. When ice climbing, dress appropriately. Wear layers that can be removed as you warm up. Gloves and boots will keep your hands and feet warm. Insulation, food, water, and a first-aid kit.
The following tips will help you dress for success when climbing on the ice:
- Wear layers of clothing that can be removed as you warm up.
- Keep your hands and feet warm by wearing gloves and boots.
- Carry a backpack with extra insulation, food, water, and a first-aid kit.
